As we edge into the later years of life, it’s clear that on the outside we’re not the same people we were at, say, 50 as we are at 30. So, what does that mean for a beauty or makeup routine that has served you well until that point? Some women might find they need to make big adjustments, and others not so much.
“I don’t think there’s a specific age where a woman should change how she wears makeup,” says David Vincent, national artist & creative specialist for Watier Cosmetics. “It’s more about how the skin is because we don’t age like everyone else. When you notice major changes with your skin, it's time to reevaluate the application or product selection you’re using.”
Whether you’re 25 or 55, a polished makeup look starts with good skin prep, which Vincent insists is essential, and if you haven’t had one in the past, once you hit your 40s and beyond, it becomes a must. He suggests at least using a good moisturizer combined with a nourishing primer to create a smoother canvas for the product to adhere to the skin. And don’t overlook the lips either; keeping them conditioned and hydrated will help them look fuller and also be a better surface for product application and appearance.
Having a lighter touch, be it with the amount or type of makeup applied or how it’s applied, can make a marked difference in whether your makeup ages or flatters you. Vincent advises letting go of full-coverage foundation and heavy powders that can settle into textured skin and create a mask-like effect. Instead, he suggests going for lightweight but buildable coverage and then applying more foundation or using a corrector or concealer for areas that you want to camouflage.
“I understand that sometimes women of a certain age have dark spots or uneven skin tone, so the go-to is to put more and more full coverage with a full-coverage foundation because it’s one product and one application. You will hide everything, but the overall look won’t look as natural, fresh, and luminous as if you used something a bit more lightweight and buildable coverage, and, where there are specific areas that need more coverage, you can build up the coverage. The overall perception of you… will be way more natural,” adds Vincent.
Look for products that have added skin care benefits in the formulation that will keep skin hydrated. Applying foundation in small amounts helps avoid over-heavy coverage. Tools matter, but technique is more important, Vincent says. Start with a small amount of product and have a light, gentle touch rather than working a lot of product aggressively into the skin.
“Having small stable movements or circular motions, I use a brush or sponge to press and remove excess product rather than applying the product with the sponge,” he explains. “That will leave the skin looking incredibly natural. You can always use a damp sponge with no product to dab on the skin to remove any excess product. You should avoid anything vigorous or dragging down with any tool.”
Use smaller brushes for eyeshadow, concealer or blush to more precisely position the product exactly where you need it rather than over a large area.
When it comes to applying blush on an older face, the positioning and technique that worked in your 20s doesn’t give you the same effect as when you’re older. To achieve a lifted, more youthful look, Vincent says it’s important to think in terms of upwards, outwards, and strategically placed rather than adding more makeup. The objective is to visually bring attention to the highest point of the face to counteract what gravity is doing.
“Try to place the blush slightly higher on the cheek,” he advises. “If you want color on the apple of the cheek, apply it on the upper part of the apple of the cheek and then blend it towards the temples. That will create the impression of lifted cheekbones. You will bring attention to the upper part of the face. If it seems a bit higher than what you would normally do, then it’s what you should be doing. Same thing with bronzer. It should be placed higher as well—up on the perimeter of the forehead and higher on the cheek rather than a stripe on the cheekbones. You’re mimicking what the sun would do to your face anyway.”
Vincent observes that the key to a youthful look is having a lighter hand with every aspect of your makeup from brows to contouring to eyeliner. He suggests going with a highlighter instead of dark contouring to achieve definition and volume. “Everything that can look harsh and heavy, I think you should tone it down a bit,” he says.
Adapting to a changing face and complexion doesn’t mean you need to forfeit your well-earned personal style. If you’ve had a signature lip color, keep it, Vincent says. Maybe pair it with a lip liner for a fuller lip and to prevent feathering.
“My approach is, you do you,” he states. “I think you can keep your individuality and even adopt trends for your face.”
Just do it with a lighter touch.
