VICTORIA — The grey, cool mist of an autumn morning briefly hides the full glory of the castle on the hill.
But the fog soon gives way to bright sunshine, and light shining on stained-glass windows spreads a kaleidoscope of colours across a decked-out 19th century dining room table.
A step inside Craigdarroch Castle is a walk back into history, when a mighty coal baron built a monument on a rocky outcrop overlooking the city of Victoria to announce his stature and prominence as one of the richest men in Western Canada.
Scottish immigrant Robert Dunsmuir never did get to live in his industrialist showpiece home. He died in 1889, months before construction was completed in 1890.
Dunsmuir's estate, valued at about US$20 million just before his death, left everything to his wife, Joan, who moved into the castle with three daughters and two grandchildren — and an army of servants and staff to tend to their beck and call.
Joan Dunsmuir lived at Craigdarroch (which means rocky, oak place in Gaelic) until her death in 1908.
The four-storey, 39-room grey brick edifice, with its steep red slate roof, towering peak and seven chimneys, is a national historic site. The Victorian mansion is open to daily tours and is approaching almost 150,000 visitors this year.
President John Hughes of the not-for-profit Craigdarroch Historical Museum Society seemingly knows everything about the castle, including some of its deep secrets.
Hughes said during a recent tour that the castle was built as a showcase of Dunsmuir's immense wealth.
The interior's white oak panelling, including the stairs, windows and doors, were prefabricated and shipped from Chicago on five rail cars. The red slate for the roof came from Vermont, and the Hawaiian koa inlays in the drawing room floor are among the castle's exotic wood finishes that include walnut, rosewood, maple, holly and oak.
Hughes points to a huge black wooden chair near the main entrance as an example of the overt displays of wealth, saying the chair cost $200 in the 1890s while homes in Victoria were ranging between $300 and $600.
Of the castle's 17 fireplaces, mostly coal burning, the huge sandstone hearth and mantel is the most impressive. Engraved in the stone across the mantel is: "Welcome ever smiles and farewell goes out sighing," from the William Shakespeare play "Troilus and Cressida."
Mounted elk, goat and deer heads are throughout the castle, another sign of wealth for the times, said Hughes, as is the massive English billiards table on the fourth floor.
Hughes said people frequently ask if the castle is haunted, which he quickly denies, but he admits to some strange goings-on.
About 15 years ago, during a movie shoot for a film starring Oscar winner Ben Kingsley called "Spooky House," a black panther being used in the film had a major accident in the castle, said Hughes.
"It just decided to let this big stream of urine out and it got into the wood," he said. "On warm summer days, and we have a few of those here, you can often get that little bit of whiff."
Panthers aside, Hughes said the castle has become a unique spot for couples to tie the knot. Craigdarroch's $300 elopement package has become popular with couples wanting a fast marriage in a glamorous and traditional setting.
"People are looking for unique locations," he said. "They are looking for ambience. How often do you get married in a castle? It's as much the history and the connection to old spaces as saying, 'Hey, I got married in a castle.'"
